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'Over and Under and Over and Under and Over and Under'
CPHFW Presentation 6th August 2025
Presentation Text by Alisa Larsen
This fourth edition is titled Over and Under and Over and Under
and Over and Under – a name that speaks to the rhythm at the heart
of weaving, but also to the tension many of us feel today. The weight of
overproduction, overstimulation, overexhaustion. And the question: can
under-producing – making less, and more slowly – be a meaningful an-
swer?
The starting point for this collection was a simple woven basket, made
in the studio from leftover yarn. That gesture – a small act of making –
brought me back to the most elemental principle of weaving: over and
under. The basket became both inspiration and method. Throughout the
process, we’ve worked with two local willow basket weavers, exploring
the shared language of textile and basketry.
The silhouettes you’ll see today build on Stem’s signature techniques
– particularly the Pulling Technique, which gathers fabric into shape
through tension and knotting, without cutting or waste. We’ve intro-
duced denim this season, building on what we started with our Ganni
collaboration a few years back – what we’re calling “Stenim” – as well as
patchworked showpieces made entirely from studio remnants. Every
garment is a negotiation of constraint and care.
The presentation today is not a show, but a moment of making. As mod-
els move through the space, some of you will take part in a willow weav-
ing workshop, led by Mai Hvid Jørgensen using Danish-grown willow. It
invites us to enact the foundational motion of weaving – over and under –
and by doing so, witness first-hand the relationship between basket and
cloth, structure and story, fibre and form.
Thank you for being part of it.
Photos by:
James Cochrane
Sophie Salfinger
Mads Schultz
